Friday, 17 May 2013

Huntly's cave Projects. 1 failure..ish 1 success

The second day that Vic was up we decided to visit the small crag of huntlys cave. For such a small peice of rock it provides loads of stuff to go at. Most of which provides steep and strenuous crux's. We started off on Double Overhang, a lovely HVS 5a that tackles an impressive looking roof. Chose this route first to give Vic a flavour of what Huntly's Cave is all about. It provides relatively long routes too which is a bonus.



Huntlys cave, Me and Spot


A quick ab down led onto one of a few routes left that i have yet to climb, Huntly's Jam. A steep, hard crux E2 5c. I had previously climbed up to the crux and bottled it after not feeling confident going through the roof. This time i had more confidence and flew up past the crux and found myself stopped panting for breath on a pedestal. Still steep but not steep enough to warrant a push to the top before i fell. I rested here sussing out the final moves up the vertical headwall. Got to the top very happy with how i felt on the route and how i climbed it. Bring on one of my main projects :)


Just before the Jam

Lime street has all ways seemed to hard for me to even bother with. It looks a bit full on and desperate from the ground with no real beta from wherever you look at it. I got on the route with the mentality that i would probably climb up, not fancy it and ab off/downclimb scared. However, I got sucked into the route and soon found myself battling with the crux 6a move.

I had got to the crux feeling anxious, apprehensive and a bit scared. In reality i was safe as i had good gear and could of easily done the crux if hadn't hung around on steep ground for around 5 mins. Justifying a try at the crux i went for it, moving up to the crux crack and placing a solid nut i went for a high right hand finger lock which is the last pull before the finishing jug. Unfortunately i missed the finger lock and didn't have the strength/bottle to try again...off. Fell back to the steep rest, placed another bomber wire to sort my head and got the crux second go kicking myself at how amenable it felt with fresh arms. Ah well, will have another go next time. Hold on though! Whats this...the guide book mentions finishing through a roof. No problem i thought, it wont be as hard as that crux so i will be ok. Climbed up to the beck of the roof and looked back at the 1.7m span that the roof provides! No way does it go up there, twice i tried the second crux and twice i didn't want to commit as i couldn't find any decent holds to feel confident on after my previous knock in confidence. Damn it! Finished up the HVS to the left and that was that. El-bottle collapsio. 100% i can climb this route though, just need some trad mileage to get the technique, stamina and mind boost that it will take to climb and enjoy it.

A good, promising day out :)

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