Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Souter Head

In Aberdeen for a two day Work related course gave me a chance to explore the Aberdeen coast. Never seem to get too excited about this part of Scotland. Think its due to my lack of knowledge about the great but scattered routes that are on the NE coast. Each venue seems to struggle to provide more than 4 worthwhile routes, one place that is an exception to this rule is Souter Head. Kev and Tony had managed to get some time to get some routes done in the evening, we aimed to get an easy day of trad in the sunshine. As usual the forecasters had failed to deliver a forecast with anything above a 10% accuracy rate. We had good fun on slab top chimney, a route Kev and Tony had wanted to do in a while, until the drizzle started.

Grassy Pinnacle
 We quickly climbed Brookers arete, a lovely little route that climbs a striking arete. Although the conditions weren't great all three of us enjoyed the route.
The Pobble VS 4b
 I then wondered over to the grassy pinnacle to have a look at the classic E1, Mythical Wall. Unfortunately it was too wet to climb and we decided to climb The Pobble. Having climbed the Pobble last year with Ali i knew what to expect so was happy to climb it in less then dry conditions! Its a good route with a steep start leading to a nice pull onto a safe and steady traverse across the slabby upper face.
The Pobble

The next day Vic came up from Derby to join me on an awesome sunny afternoon. The plan was to tick all the routes on the same Pinnacle as Pobble. These being Mythical Wall E1 5b, Over the Top E2 5b and Pickpocket E2 5c. Super sunny weather stayed with us the whole afternoon and all three lines were climbed O/S. First route, Mythical, was still a little damp but soon gave way to dry crack climbing above which was great fun and safe. Next route, Over the Top, shares the same start but goes straight up instead of following the fault left. after a couple of 'looks' to work out the thin and strenuous pull through the roof i went for the crux move successfuly. Ended up getting pretty pumped though so slowed down my climbing trying to get rid of the pump. Awesome laybacking moves to the top finish the route.

Last route climbs the seaward face. Pickpocket climbs the thin wall, it took quite a while to suss out the sequence as the holds are quite hard to read from below. Once the niche is reached one more 5b move see's you on the run up to the top.

Great two days, Vics up now for two days so see what other places we will end up.


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