Thursday, 19 July 2012

Skye - Kilt Rock

Kilt Rock - Amazing Place to climb
Second day dawned sunny but with some ominous looking clouds above. On the road to Kilt Rock we drove through several showers that started to dampen our spirits somewhat. However at the turning north from Portree all was well with the Old man of stoer looking awesome in the summer light.

After the walk across the field that leads to Kilt Rock i got my first sight of the columnar jointed mega seacliff. This place has loads of character and an air of scaryness that i started to feel at the top. It was Martins lead and he chose to get on the nice line of Tartan Terror to the left of Skyman, my eyes were on this for the day until i got there!!

Martin post fall on Tartan Terror

Martin did a good job leading the 25m to the crux, he geared up, psyched up and went for it. And then he went for some flying lessons, after a much fought battle he had to concede and take a winger onto the bomber gear. Good effort though, and from the ground it looks good and doable. But when your starting up the crux you soon feel the sustained nature that consumes so many of this jamming crack paradise (or any other way you feel about jamming). So after more minutes of grunting and sweat Martin got to the top after winning an impressive battle against the crux crack. My turn on second and got up but had to learn how to relax whilst using jams pretty quick, very nice but pumpy E1.

Abbing down Grey Panther
Next up was the 45m crag classic Grey Panther, E1 5b ****. It doesnt take the normal crack line as most others do, instead a cunning use of Bridging has to be used to wiggle your way up the impressive and never ending Dolarite corner. Half way up you start to think you havnt even made a dent in the route as there is still so much climbing to come. Then the thin for the feet crux comes and i started to sweat underneath my jacket in the warmth of the sun.

At the top looking down the route is great, so many quality moves all the way up. A climb i wont forget in a while :)

Last route to wind down for the day was the classic HVS Electric Bagpipe, by the way, a freezing belay seems to ensue during the leader dispatching the route. Nice climb aswell, very worth while abbing down the gull once more at the end of a day for a wind down. 115m of climbing in three routes. Day is over but im definitely going to come back after a longer running spell of climbing hard (and using my new learnt and trusted jamming techniques ;) I have a few more of the harder classics to get on!! Cuillin tomorrow

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