|Morning Coire Lagan|
Boots touched down on Bastinado at 9 and we were discussing our next adventure at the Glacis by 3. 6 hours of great climbing in a place that gets better every time you go, as you learn more about the history, geology, climbs and geography of the place.
Bastinado a 2 star route is a 4 pitch E2 5c with a reported 'brutal' crux. Martin lead off on the first pitch, taking a nice 40m layback crack to the 1 st belay.
2nd and third pitch was combined to give a warm up crux of 5b and the actual route crux of 5c in a nice 30m pitch. Crux was pretty desperate, not hard physically but just a really long, awkward, frustraintingly close to getting it hold. But once caught it leads onto a nice exposed flake line leading to a belay. The final pitch leads easily up below the great hanging slab of the Cioch.
|Bastinado E2 - 1st crux|
My lead again and it was great to climb up the slab and Arrow Route, passing the great fun looking line of overhanging crack on the Cioch itself (note to self: get on this next time). No gear, just really weird bobbly rock. Great fun.
|Arrow Route - VD|
Last butress was breached by climbing Atropos. Atropos gets a bit of bad press on UKC being apparently a rubbish line, loose, poor belays but I liked the climbing. The first slab is really nice and the second pitch feels like your free climbing 2 overlaps in one pitch and ending up on the glacis is a great feeling no matter how you got there. The second roof is a bit loose but this is the mountains, just got to be careful. A great day ended by finding martins bag of biscuits and my lunch box half way down the crag in bits after the local crow had decided he was a bit peckish. Got to commend them really, swines!!!!!
|Atropos P1 - E1|
Decided to drive home late that night to convert the van the next day.
|Campervaning it up living the life|