Saturday, 26 November 2011

Challenge 2013/14

Ama Dablam
Been thinking too much again at work and have decided to arrange another climbing related adventure. To climb ama dablam alpine style in 2014. For one reason, just looking at it makes me want to climb it, the experiance, challenge and beuty all make me want to do it. So prep will be to get two more summer seasons in the alps and hopefully a couple of quick trips in winter to the alps. Then find a partner (have a couple in mind ;) and book the flights and see how it goes. (All depening on fitness, skill level and experiance of myself and partner)

Monday, 7 November 2011

Still waiting....

... for winter. But as it hasnt happened yet, so a few days out and about enjoying my climbing.

First day myself and Ali popped down to Logie head. I havnt led a route (outdoors) in ages so the plan was to just get back into it by climbing some routes that i have enjoyed before. This turned out to be a solo of poacher, led Sunnyside up and it's direct brother which, after Ali's leads, turned out to fill the after noon nicely.
Loch opposite Creag Dubh



Then came the hunting for partners to climb Sunday and Monday. Sunday wasn't a problem, i planned to go creag dubh with simon taking full advantage of this high pressure weather. An early drive down the A9 to newtonmore in sub zero conditions wasn't that inspiring, but as the morning went on it turned out to be too hot! November!?!?! We both hadn't led here, Simon hadn't been here before, but were both aware of the boldness stories. So sensibly we warmed up on what turned out to be a great little route, King Bee Direct Start. Climbing the small arete / rib led up to the direct variation through a roof. I would definitely recommend doing the direct version as it has a great move and feeling of exposure going through the roof.

Next was the crag classic, Inbred. Just looking at the Great wall makes me feel intimidated, but you'll be pleased to hear once your on it, its big flat holds makes things a lot more civilised. Moving up to sit on the belay ledge is pretty cool, although why did they put the bolt on the ledge?? Makes more sense placing it up in the wall. Anyway after P2 we abbed off the precarious? tree to start our next and final climb, strapadicktaemi. Oddly named but a good route, it takes the right slanting handrail until a vertical crack leads up to the same belay as Inbred. Bold but juggy climbing. Then P2 has a bit more gear but less in the way of bomber holds, basically slab climbing with a finish up to a hanging belay off of another precarious block.


Abbing Off Strapadicktaemi

Conclusion to Creag Dubh is. Amazing! Definitely coming back here to lead some of the more harder, classic lines.

Monday is where partner issues came in. Finally got in touch of a mate who phoned up 2hrs before we start cancelling! WHAT! Its all good though as it was an awesome day and a day which an easy scramble and a munro before winter starts wouldn't go a miss for some hill fitness.

Ended up going up Fiacaill ridge and over to cairngorm and back down for some lunch and an early departure. The views from the top of cairngorm were one of the best with regards to air clarity. Could easily see Ben Nevis, Wyvis and even see Conival and Ben More Assynt. Along with the wierd heather burning smoke formations was quite a view.

Fiacaill Ridge

 

One day off now (hopefully sort a mortgage out) and back to it on wednesday for a spot of sport climbing near Braemar.