Sunday, 30 October 2011

Back to it

For one reason or another i have had a fairly long break from consistent climbing trips, mainly being weather, work and new toys :) This last month has seen me thinking baout winter climbing alot, including a list of 40 routes to do in one season! Errrr no, but it shows the psyche level for winter.

It just so happens that a persistent Southerly wind is pushing up warm air (14DegC today - Average is 5DegC??) and the resultant mild moist air is putting a stopper on the freeze thaw and cold air we need to get the axes out. Boooooo but that means summer isnt over! Yeahhhhh.

So today i had a yearning to go somewhere new, I ended up at Brin Rock bouldering. Bouldering is good as it will give me a rough estimation on where my fitness is without finding out mid crux over shite gear. Brin rock has a maze of boulders all styles and sizes, from 12ft slabs to desperate roofs theres something for everyone. I liked the look of a thin slab problem that would test balance and footwork and provide a light warm up for the fingers having not crimped on anything in ages! It turned out to be a really nice problem and the boulder itself providing a couple of other easier but cool moves.

So after a sufficient warm up myslef and Ali headed to 'the Den', an area that has the popular problem 'spank the ramp'. Basically a steep slopey ramp that has a steep but fun finish, 6b. As reference to my fitness levels i managed the problem pretty well, strength - not bad, technique - lacking but will improve with a more regular climbing pattern. Excellent. Time for the harder variant next to it, Graeme's Pinch. It used the same start up to a massive bucket but then required you to lay back off of a slopey pinch that i couldnt hold to rock up a grab the next small crimp. I managed to hold it once but couldnt move on from this. A step to far after a day of bouldering,project though!



** Also need to climb here - Gangplank, The Prow, the wild man, skytrain and gold digger all need attempting **


Spank the Ramp
To end of the day we quickly jumped on a couple of problems on the Farr Boulder, a pointy random erratic in a foresty demolition zone. One slabby problem, one arete and one finger crack. Nice one. Psyche is back and hopefully i wont have any more interruptions to my climbing ambitions!! Role on discovery and new crags!!


Farr Boulder